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One of Paris's most atmospheric, and up-and-coming, neighborhoods, it's also a culinary melting pot, with everything from the minuscule Japanese noodle shops lining Rue St-Anne, authentic 19th-century brasseries that evoke the old working-class bouillons, and Art Nouveau–style Belle Époque dining rooms, to a new generation of young, talented chefs cooking up some of the city's most exciting cuisine.
A head-turning variety of luscious pastries, classic French breakfast sweets and breads, ice cream, chocolates, and homemade jams will tempt every sweet tooth at this charming bakery and tearoom. Tucked into the historic covered Passage Jouffroy, Le Valentin is a picturesque spot for breakfast, lunch, or teatime—or buy a box of irresistible French-Alsatian sweets to enjoy on the go.
There's nothing quite like a good old-fashioned Paris brasserie . . . except, perhaps, for a good old-fashioned Paris neobrasserie, a new genre that takes the best of the classic eatery—lively atmosphere, copious menu options, all-day hours, traditional decor—and adds a 21st-century vibe, all at reasonable prices. At Dubillot, you'll find the French classics—oeufs mayonnaise, homemade country pâté, steak tartare, smoked trout, leg of lamb, and crispy frites—along with well-priced wines by the bottle or glass. Everything is homemade, and the chef is dedicated to preserving France's gastronomic heritage by sourcing all meats and produce locally. This is tradition brought up-to-date at its finest—and it's a lot of fun to boot.
With so many of Paris's fabled brasseries co-opted by upscale chains, the 2013 opening by three-Michelin-star chef Eric Frechon of this modern take on the traditional brasserie in the St-Lazare train station was met with curiosity and joy. Though prices are commensurate with his status, Frechon doesn't skimp on the classics: steak tartare, escargot, and charcuterie all make memorable appearances. Bright and loftlike, Lazare riffs on familiar brasserie themes—think marble-top tables, globe lights, soaring ceilings, and mosaic floors. There's a dish du jour every weekday, like slow-cooked lamb with lemon confit and olives, or crispy grilled pork on a bed of turnip kraut, all well-prepared and comforting (just like grand-mère used to make).
Though Parisian purists may not approve, the rest of the world has joyfully embraced this hybrid restaurant/pastry shop that rose to global TikTok fame with the “crookie,” an unabashedly decadent mix of French croissant and American-style chocolate-chip cookie. You’ll feel better about indulging if you first partake of the many healthy items on the brunch, lunch, and dinner menus offering French classic dishes like country paté, a creamy veggie soup of the day, escargot in garlic butter, roasted duck leg, and a juicy American-style hamburger on a homemade French brioche bun.
Part of a stylish new chain proliferating around Paris, this sleek café inhabits the entrance of a formerly run-down historic passage couvert on the picturesque, and newly chic, Rue Richer—home of the Folies Bergère. Coffee lovers can enjoy their cuppa (or matcha, chai, and so forth) from velvet banquettes or high up on a balcony overlooking the soaring, light-filled space with a views down Rue Saulnier.
