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One of Paris's most atmospheric, and up-and-coming, neighborhoods, it's also a culinary melting pot, with everything from the minuscule Japanese noodle shops lining Rue St-Anne, authentic 19th-century brasseries that evoke the old working-class bouillons, and Art Nouveau–style Belle Époque dining rooms, to a new generation of young, talented chefs cooking up some of the city's most exciting cuisine.
Lodged in one of Paris's most picturesque historic passages, the Italian Caffè Stern—a listed monument updated by designer Philippe Starck—is loaded with the sort of antique charm that makes a cup of coffee and dessert feel like a romantic moment in time. Full meals are a more elegant—and expensive—affair, though teatime (3 pm–6 pm) and the prix-fixe lunch (€30) make for a more manageable splurge.
