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It's hard not to feel part of the café culture in Montparnasse. Along the broad boulevards you can find some of the city's classic brasseries. As storied as they are, many have been bought by chains and drained of the true charm that once attracted artists, politicians, and intellectuals. Though authentic brasseries can still be found—like Le Dôme—some of the area's best food is found at small bistros on narrow side streets.
This lively café in the heart of the Left Bank theater district specializes in meats, wines, and cheeses from the Auvergne region of France, famous for its prize beef cattle. If you don’t want meat but love cheese and mashed potatoes, try the aligot, a hearty recipe of potato puree, melted cheese, cream, and garlic.
