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It's hard not to feel part of the café culture in Montparnasse. Along the broad boulevards you can find some of the city's classic brasseries. As storied as they are, many have been bought by chains and drained of the true charm that once attracted artists, politicians, and intellectuals. Though authentic brasseries can still be found—like Le Dôme—some of the area's best food is found at small bistros on narrow side streets.
The exceptional Art Nouveau decor and inexpensive menu are strong magnets for diners who are willing to stand in line for a seat at this historic brasserie, all to enjoy a three-course meal for as little as €20. The food is average and service brisk, but it's worth a visit between traditional meal times when there is no line.
A popular and pricey bar and restaurant, the Closerie is also a staple of Parisian literary tours for its storied history. Commemorative plaques are bolted to the bar as if they were still saving seats for their former clientele: an impressive list of literati including Zola, Baudelaire, Rimbaud, Apollinaire, Beckett, and, of course, Hemingway. "Papa" wrote pages of The Sun Also Rises here and lived around the corner at 115 rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Although the lilacs that once graced the garden—and shaded such habitués as Ingres, Whistler, and Cézanne—are gone, the terrace still opens onto a garden wall of luxuriant foliage. There is live music in the piano bar. There are two menus here; the brasserie menu, served near the bar, is less expensive and very good.
With lacy curtains, beamed ceilings, and carved wood walls, this might be the closest you'll get to an authentic Breton crêperie without heading to the coast. Dig into a hearty buckwheat galette, perfectly crisped on the edges and filled with a classic combo of country ham, egg, cheese, and mushrooms or any number of other filling choices, accompanied by a pitcher of refreshing dry Breton cider. For dessert, the traditional crêpe filled with crème de marron (chestnut) or the sublime caramel au beurre salé (salted caramel), is not to be missed. With a two-course lunch formule for €14, this is a great place for a quick, satisfying, and thoroughly French meal. Extra bonus: the kids will love it.
This neighborhood bistro is a local favorite for its fresh, seasonal menu, friendly service, and excellent value. The marinated salmon with sesame crust starter, followed by the steamed catch of the day, are excellent choices, but the menu is constantly changing according to produce availability and the chef's inspiration. There are nice two-course menu options for both lunch and dinner.
A second home to foreign artists and political exiles in the 1920s and 1930s, La Rotonde has a less exotic but still faithful clientele today. It's a very pleasant place to have coffee or a meal on the sunny terrace. For a quieter, smoke-free atmosphere, head inside for a traditional French dining experience in the plush, red decor.
This small, casual French restaurant is nestled on a tiny street that runs between two major boulevards. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed, and the extensive, traditional menu of market-fresh produce makes it difficult to decide what to eat; for starters, try the sautéed pleurotes (oyster mushrooms) with a poached egg or the salmon tartare, followed by the wild-fish catch of the day, vegetarian risotto, or duck breast with scalloped potatoes, all accompanied by a wine direct from the producer. Friendly chef-owner Eric also offers daily specials depending on what he finds at the market.
Now a fancy fish brasserie serving seafood delivered fresh from Normandy every day, this restaurant began as a dingy meeting place for exiled artists and intellectuals like Lenin and Picasso. The family-owned institution hired star Japanese chef Yoshihiko Miura to modernize its menu while keeping some enduring classics. Try the sole meunière or the bouillabaisse, the ingredients of which are on display in their raw form in the restaurant's outstanding fish shop next door. The famous millefeuille (Napoleon) is a must for fans of this rich, creamy dessert. You can still drop by the covered terrace for a cup of coffee or a drink.
With its Art Nouveau decor, friendly waitstaff, and menu of fresh bistro food, this is the perfect place for a drink or meal after visiting the nearby Montparnasse Cemetery.
This lively café in the heart of the Left Bank theater district specializes in meats, wines, and cheeses from the Auvergne region of France, famous for its prize beef cattle. If you don’t want meat but love cheese and mashed potatoes, try the aligot, a hearty recipe of potato puree, melted cheese, cream, and garlic.
Legendary performers and artists, including the likes of Isadora Duncan and Hart Crane, used to hang out here, and now it's a popular place for a coffee, glass of wine, or well-made cocktail. Stay for lunch or dinner and enjoy the brasserie menu, where the signature salade niçoise is outstanding and the classic French onion soup hits the spot. It may not be as hip as the equally historic cafés in St-Germain-des-Prés, but Le Select is a low-key way of soaking in the Left Bank historic café scene without the hubbub.
