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Trastevere has always been known for its Left Bank bohemian appeal. A hip expat enclave with working-class Roman roots, the neighborhood is now lined with an almost overabundance of trattorias and wine bars. The Gianicolo area, at the top of the hill, is more subdued, with breathtaking views.
Tucked away behind Piazza Trilussa, family-run Checco er Carretiere is the archetypal Roman restaurant. A local institution for decades, the eatery started as an osteria with the eponymous Checco bringing wine from the nearby Castelli Romani into the city by horse and cart, while his wife, Diomira, cooked a few daily dishes. The lively dining room is lined with photos of customers who have frequented the restaurant for three generations, indulging in carbonara and amatriciana. In warmer months, seating on the small patio is in high demand.
Romans are starting to recognize Monteverde as a foodie hub, and this trattoria is one of the neighborhood's outstanding spots. The food ranges from the classics to carefully thought-out modern creations, but whatever you order, the quality of the produce shines. Dishes include hearty pastas, toasted veal tongue, and delicious onion soup. Desserts like cinnamon and pear cheesecake or tiramisu pair well with the selection of local dessert wines, like moscato from Terracina, a coastal town not far from Rome.
A coffee bar by day with specialty brews and excellent pastries, this popular enoteca has an impressive selection of Italian, French, and other international natural wines on the menu. The brunch menu offers bacon-and-egg sandwiches and healthy breakfast bowls, while the lunch and dinner offerings lean more traditionally Italian. In the summer, sit out on the patio just outside the walls of tranquil Villa Sciarra and you'll feel a million miles from the hectic clamor of Rome.
This beloved neighborhood trattoria does many things well, from the fried starters to the pastas to the meaty secondi (second course), so it's no surprise that it's won the hearts—and stomachs—of Romans all over town. The wine list is extensive, and the friendly waitstaff are happy to offer advice. There's also a pleasant outdoor seating area when weather allows.
