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Trastevere has always been known for its Left Bank bohemian appeal. A hip expat enclave with working-class Roman roots, the neighborhood is now lined with an almost overabundance of trattorias and wine bars. The Gianicolo area, at the top of the hill, is more subdued, with breathtaking views.
Romans are starting to recognize Monteverde as a foodie hub, and this trattoria is one of the neighborhood's outstanding spots. The food ranges from the classics to carefully thought-out modern creations, but whatever you order, the quality of the produce shines. Dishes include hearty pastas, toasted veal tongue, and delicious onion soup. Desserts like cinnamon and pear cheesecake or tiramisu pair well with the selection of local dessert wines, like moscato from Terracina, a coastal town not far from Rome.
This beloved neighborhood trattoria does many things well, from the fried starters to the pastas to the meaty secondi (second course), so it's no surprise that it's won the hearts—and stomachs—of Romans all over town. The wine list is extensive, and the friendly waitstaff are happy to offer advice. There's also a pleasant outdoor seating area when weather allows.
