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"E mo’ che fammo?" ("And now what do we do?" in local dialect) . . . For a great night out in Rome, all you need to do is to wander, because ready entertainment is sure to find you on every corner. It’s important to follow Rome’s rule of thumb: if you see an enoteca, stop in. Though most enoteche are tiny and offer a limited antipasti menu, they cover more ground in their wine lists and often have a charming gang of regulars. For the linguistically timid, there are also several stereotypical English and Irish pubs peppered around the city, complete with a steady stream of Guinness, darts, and rugby on their satellite televisions. Those oversize flat-screen TVs also show American football, baseball, and basketball—ideal for those who don't want to miss a playoff game.
Although Rome offers a cornucopia of evening bacchanalia, from ultra-chic to super-cheap, all that glitters is not gold. Insiders and visitors alike understand that finding "the scene" in Rome is the proverbial needle in the haystack: it requires patience and pursuit. Your best asset will be your ability to talk, since word-of-mouth is the most accurate source. Entertainment guides like Roma 2night provide great logistical information including up-to-date listings of bars and clubs. Most visitors head out in the centro storico to find some fun; Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Campo de' Fiori, and even Trastevere may be filled with tourists, but more recently, several niche and boutique bars have opened. (In contrast, the Spanish Steps area is a ghost town by 9 pm.) If you want to get out of the comfort zone, head to the Testaccio and San Lorenzo areas. And wherever you go, remember: Romans love an after-party, so plenty of nightlife doesn't start until midnight.
When it comes to clubs, discos, and DJs in Rome, Testaccio is considered a mecca. Testaccio’s Via Galvani is Rome’s Sunset Strip, where hybrid restaurant-clubs, largely identical in music and crowd, jockey for top ranking. On average, drinks range between €10 and €15, and one is often included with the entrance (€10–€20). In summer, many clubs relocate to the beach or the Tiber, so call ahead to confirm location and hours.
Affectionately shortened to “Makke” by Romans, this tiny pub can’t contain the number of beer lovers who flock here at all hours to indulge in a craft pint, or three. Patrons spill out onto the sidewalk behind Piazza Trilussa, sipping the carefully selected artisan brews that arrive from around the world. There is a rotating selection on the 16 taps, and an impressive list of bottled beer.
This unpretentious enoteca is a popular spot to gather over excellent wines and creative small plates. Guests can take one of the bottles right off the well-stocked shelves or choose from a selection of wines by the glass, including some prized wines for very reasonable prices.
Conveniently close to MAXXI and the Auditorium Parco della Musica, this hip lounge serves classic and creative cocktails as well as light bites in a two-story space with tables on the mezzanine and low sofas on the ground floor. The tapas-style menu is international, with offerings like guacamole and hummus, in addition to the popular maritozzo salato, a savory version of the Roman bun filled with tuna instead of cream, and a few heartier options, including a burger. Food is served until 1 am every night, and brunch is available on weekends.
Set on a private terrace overlooking Trastevere, Ombre Rosse bustles with expats and other regulars who appreciate the cocktail creations and the ever-lively atmosphere. On weekends, the outdoor patio is the perfect spot to enjoy an aperitivo and nibbles before finishing off an evening with friends at the bar.
This subterranean speakeasy is decked out in vintage decor inspired by motorcycle racing, with leather Chesterfield sofas and newspaper clippings plastered on the walls. Creative cocktails are fancifully presented and may arrive in an assortment of vessels, including a Moroccan lamp or a baby bottle. To access the bar, you'll have to become a member, which costs €5 (membership is valid for a year).
The full name of this little bar is Rivendita: Libri Teatro e Cioccolata, and that's exactly what you'll find in this charming hole-in-the-wall: books and chocolate. Open only in the evenings, the used-bookstore-bar combo offers wine, sweet cocktails, or drinks with double-entendre names that are served in edible shot glasses made of pure chocolate.
Here, a labyrinth of rooms contains a bistro and champagnerie, which are stocked with delicious delicacies and sought-after vintages, and a nightclub with two dance floors featuring every genre of music—from electronic and underground, to hip-hop, lounge, and international.
The romantic rooftop terrace at I Sofà has a 360-degree view of the Eternal City, so it's no surprise that it's a prime spot for a late-afternoon cocktail (weather permitting). The bar takes its name from the historic stone benches carved into the wall at the entrance to the Hotel St. George. Head downstairs in the cooler months for a wide selection of craft beers on tap inside the Hotel Indigo.
Most aperitivos tend to be more all-you-can-eat than refined predinner stop, but that is not the case at Taverna Volpetti. The chic, bistro-style wine bar and restaurant sources all its ingredients from the gourmet food store by the same name that sits just around the corner. The warm atmosphere, stellar wine list, and excellent cheese and salami make it the ideal place for a drink and a snack—or to stay put with a bottle and sip the night away.
Want a peek at Rome's rooftops from atop an iconic, wisteria-draped palazzo? Head to the small terrace bar at the Hotel Raphaël, noted for its bird's-eye view of the campaniles and palazzos of Piazza Navona. This is one of Rome's most romantic spots, so booking a table (and being prepared for the relatively high prices) is advised.
Salami-and-cheese tasting menus and a seemingly unlimited selection of wines, Prosecco, vini santi, and grappe are highlights of this lovely (albeit tiny) enoteca with a very old-fashioned vibe. Inside, it's standing-room only; in good weather, you can sit outside at an oak barrique on a quiet cobblestone street leading to one of Rome's prettiest small squares.
