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"E mo’ che fammo?" ("And now what do we do?" in local dialect) . . . For a great night out in Rome, all you need to do is to wander, because ready entertainment is sure to find you on every corner. It’s important to follow Rome’s rule of thumb: if you see an enoteca, stop in. Though most enoteche are tiny and offer a limited antipasti menu, they cover more ground in their wine lists and often have a charming gang of regulars. For the linguistically timid, there are also several stereotypical English and Irish pubs peppered around the city, complete with a steady stream of Guinness, darts, and rugby on their satellite televisions. Those oversize flat-screen TVs also show American football, baseball, and basketball—ideal for those who don't want to miss a playoff game.
Although Rome offers a cornucopia of evening bacchanalia, from ultra-chic to super-cheap, all that glitters is not gold. Insiders and visitors alike understand that finding "the scene" in Rome is the proverbial needle in the haystack: it requires patience and pursuit. Your best asset will be your ability to talk, since word-of-mouth is the most accurate source. Entertainment guides like Roma 2night provide great logistical information including up-to-date listings of bars and clubs. Most visitors head out in the centro storico to find some fun; Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Campo de' Fiori, and even Trastevere may be filled with tourists, but more recently, several niche and boutique bars have opened. (In contrast, the Spanish Steps area is a ghost town by 9 pm.) If you want to get out of the comfort zone, head to the Testaccio and San Lorenzo areas. And wherever you go, remember: Romans love an after-party, so plenty of nightlife doesn't start until midnight.
When it comes to clubs, discos, and DJs in Rome, Testaccio is considered a mecca. Testaccio’s Via Galvani is Rome’s Sunset Strip, where hybrid restaurant-clubs, largely identical in music and crowd, jockey for top ranking. On average, drinks range between €10 and €15, and one is often included with the entrance (€10–€20). In summer, many clubs relocate to the beach or the Tiber, so call ahead to confirm location and hours.
This craft beer bar draws the neighborhood's hipsters and artsy types for artisanal brews from Italy and beyond. There's not much standing room in the tiny, graffiti-laden interior, so most people sit at the long picnic tables just outside. For the beer-averse, there are natural wines, plus Campari sodas or gin and tonics on tap.
At this long-standing gathering spot for students and creatives drawn in by the cheap drinks and lively atmosphere, the crowd spills out onto the neighboring cobblestone streets until the early morning hours. Spritzes are slung from a premixed container to keep the line moving, and most customers don’t bother asking for a glass for their bottle of beer. The lack of creature comforts is a part of the eternal charm.
Rome has no shortage of gorgeous rooftop terrace bars open in the warmer months, but this one—nestled amid cupolas and bell towers atop the Eitch Borromini hotel—is exceptional. Seats along the edge look down on Bernini's famed fountain in Piazza Navona. The chic white couches are almost always filled with well-heeled Romans, making sunset reservations essential.
The romantic rooftop terrace at I Sofà has a 360-degree view of the Eternal City, so it's no surprise that it's a prime spot for a late-afternoon cocktail (weather permitting). The bar takes its name from the historic stone benches carved into the wall at the entrance to the Hotel St. George. Head downstairs in the cooler months for a wide selection of craft beers on tap inside the Hotel Indigo.
Want a peek at Rome's rooftops from atop an iconic, wisteria-draped palazzo? Head to the small terrace bar at the Hotel Raphaël, noted for its bird's-eye view of the campaniles and palazzos of Piazza Navona. This is one of Rome's most romantic spots, so booking a table (and being prepared for the relatively high prices) is advised.
