Casinha Velha
In an old house with rustic furniture, this eatery with its second-floor dining room sits in a village that has long been a haven for gourmands. They bake their own bread on the premises—including a delicious pão chouriço (with sausage)—and there's a series of tasty starters, brought out on a board that is weighed before and after you partake. Trademark dishes include a noteworthy bacalhau com natas (codfish with cream) and duck rice; for specialties such as roast capon that must be ordered in advance, check the menu (ementa) on the website. Leave some room for a mixed dessert platter or for a brisa do Lis, a local yolk-and-almond pudding.