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Dining options on Cozumel reflect the island’s laid-back attitude: breezy and relaxed, with casual dress and no reservations the rule at most places. Generally, restaurants emphasize fresh ingredients, simple presentation, and amiable service. As befits an island, there’s lots of just-caught seafood on the menu. Yucatecan cuisine is harder to come by; you’re more likely to find standard Mexican fare like tacos, enchiladas, and huevos rancheros. For budget meals, head into the untouristed part of downtown, because they’re few and far between elsewhere. Although some restaurants are turning out creative cuisine to suit the most demanding of palates, most visitors say their best dining experiences are in little family-owned spots that seem to have been here forever. While many restaurants accept credit cards, café-type places generally don’t. Cab drivers are often paid to shill for restaurants, so take their dining suggestions with a grain (or two) of salt.
Sunset views and an incredible meal await you at this oceanfront restaurant, which offers fresh seafood and meats as well as seasonal salads—all presented beautifully. If you have plans for a special-occasion meal, this is the place, but be sure to make reservations in advance, as the indoor and outdoor tables fill up fast and walk-ins are sometimes left waiting.
You'll have to work hard to find El Moro, but your perseverance will be rewarded with one of the better meals—consisting of a wide range of seafood and beef dishes—in Cozumel. After dinner, try a taste of xtabentun, a traditional Yucatecan liqueur made of fermented honey and anise seeds. This family-owned, open-air restaurant has been feeding hungry locals and tourists for years. Brothers Ray, Efren, and Heiser strive to make you feel welcome, so the service is excellent—and the portions are large.
Chef Yvonne Villiger works wonders with fresh fish—if the wahoo with capers and black olives is on the menu, don't miss it. But Guido's is best known for pizzas that are baked in a wood-fired oven and served by an incredibly attentive staff. Enjoy a pitcher of delicious sangria in the pleasant, roomy courtyard.
This casually sophisticated dining room and garden is a local favorite. Although the menu changes frequently, you can expect to find salads with fruits, pasta dishes, steaks, and seafood entrées like seared sashimi-grade tuna or the sweet-mango-topped mahimahi. Consider sharing several small plates from the tapas menu (the blue-cheese phyllo rolls with black-cherry sauce, salmon meatballs, and octopus with garlic are top picks). Also on offer are reasonably priced wines by the glass from Argentina, Chile, and Mexico. As everything is made fresh, popular menu items tend to run out, but everyone seems to leave happy.
Marimbas play beside a bubbling fountain in the charming courtyard behind one of Cozumel's best folk-art shops. The English menu is geared toward tourists and priced in pesos, but regional ingredients like smoky chipotle chile make even the standard steak stand out for a true Mexican-inspired meal. Other stars include the cilantro cream soup and shrimp flambéed with tequila. Although Pancho's can be busy, the waitstaff are patient and helpful. Cruise-ship passengers seeking a taste of Mexico pack the place at lunch; dinner is a bit more serene.
The opportunity to dine graciously amid crystal and candlelight (and blessedly cool air-conditioning) is just one reason to book a special dinner at Alfredo's. The pastas are made fresh daily, and cheeses are flown in from Italy so that the chef can prepare the house special—authentic fettuccine Alfredo—at your table. The carpaccio, spaghetti with lobster, and salmon steaks are all superb, and the wine cellar is the largest on the island. Book a table for early evening and enjoy the sunset view through wall-length windows. Note that diners not staying at the hotel must have advance reservations.
This restaurant in a little yellow house near the plaza has been satisfying cravings for Yucatecan favorites like cochinita pibil (spiced pork baked in banana leaves) since 1945. Locals tend to stop in between 8:30 and 1 for cheap breakfast and lunch menus that highlight tacos and empanadas, and the tortas (sandwiches) are also a real bargain. In the evening, Casa Denis is a place to see and be seen—if you're seeking more privacy, opt for a seat in the quiet garden courtyard to the rear.
Part private home, part restaurant (and owned by the same family since the 1980s), this place evokes a country hacienda in mainland Mexico. Although the setting, with tables lining the veranda, outshines the food, stalwart fans nevertheless rave about the huge platters of fajitas and grilled fish. The on-site botanical garden has mango and papaya trees and a small zoo with caged birds. Casa Mission also has two more centrally located sister restaurants, La Mission and Parilla Mission.
Hardly a dive bar, this place's name refers to Cozumel's great diving experience. Rub elbows with friendly expats and locals alike while you dine on burritos, shrimp bruschetta, and burgers. The atmosphere is fun and the drinks are always cold. There are a couple of TVs to catch a game. Live bands play on weekend evenings and frequently on weeknights, too.
Popular among locals, this taquería captures some of the charm of the barrios and remains open late (until 1 am daily). The soft tacos stuffed with pork, chorizo (sausage), cheese, or beef aren't the cheapest tacos on the island, but they're tasty and filling. Eat in, take out, or have your food delivered.
Thanks to a hot-pink-and-turquoise exterior, you can't miss this restaurant, which features a palapa-covered bar that opens onto a dimly lit garden dining area. Kondesa puts a modern spin on classic dishes, and the menu emphasizes fresh fish, with favorites like the Kondesa kake (an interpretation of crab cakes made with lionfish) and seafood-filled enchiladas. A full cocktail list complements any meal, so if you can't make it for dinner, stop in for a drink. DJ's spin music on certain nights.
Locals and expats gather here for breakfasts of migas (scrambled eggs with bits of bacon and tortilla) and the daily lunchtime comida corrida (a set-priced meal with a choice of appetizers and entrées), which is a great deal. Favorite dishes include pollo con mole poblano (chicken in a smooth, earthy chile sauce), chile relleno de camarón (chile stuffed with shrimp), and pork with pumpkin-seed sauce. Taste the yellow salsa with your complimentary chips, and you will be buying a bottle of it to take home. You can sample an array of agua frescas in flavors like hibiscus, but remember to leave room for the chilled avocado pie.
If you are looking for an authentic taco joint where the locals go, this is the place. The tacos al pastor, carved from a vertical spit, are big, juicy, and inexpensive. Add a cup of frijoles charros (beans and pork soup), and you have one of the best cheap meals you will find on the island.
A favorite of expats and locals, this restaurant has an extensive breakfast menu that includes whole-wheat French toast and cheese crepes. For lunch or dinner try the vegetarian tacos, linguine with clams, or one of the many salads. Pies, cakes, and pastries are baked on-site daily. You can savor your healthy meal or sweet snack (and take advantage of free Wi-Fi) while enjoying a sea view through the back windows. New Rock 'n Java spots—Noodle Bar and Sushi and Tex-Mex Island Grill (both in the nearby Mega Shopping Center)—round out the offerings of this popular Cozumel brand. Pay in pesos for a lower bill—the exchange rate here is not the best.
