Get FREE email communications from Fodor's Travel, covering must-see travel destinations, expert trip planning advice, and travel inspiration to fuel your passion.
Dining options on Cozumel reflect the island’s laid-back attitude: breezy and relaxed, with casual dress and no reservations the rule at most places. Generally, restaurants emphasize fresh ingredients, simple presentation, and amiable service. As befits an island, there’s lots of just-caught seafood on the menu. Yucatecan cuisine is harder to come by; you’re more likely to find standard Mexican fare like tacos, enchiladas, and huevos rancheros. For budget meals, head into the untouristed part of downtown, because they’re few and far between elsewhere. Although some restaurants are turning out creative cuisine to suit the most demanding of palates, most visitors say their best dining experiences are in little family-owned spots that seem to have been here forever. While many restaurants accept credit cards, café-type places generally don’t. Cab drivers are often paid to shill for restaurants, so take their dining suggestions with a grain (or two) of salt.
If you’ve got a hankering for a hole-in-the-wall place that serves cheap, delicious meals, Burritos Gorditos fits the bill for breakfast and lunch. The made-to-order shrimp burritos are excellent and big enough to split, and a solid assortment of tacos and salads is available, but no alcohol is served. Seating is limited (which is why locals call ahead for takeout or delivery). If the tables are full, place your order and wait for one to open up or eat outside on the wall.
This restaurant in a little yellow house near the plaza has been satisfying cravings for Yucatecan favorites like cochinita pibil (spiced pork baked in banana leaves) since 1945. Locals tend to stop in between 8:30 and 1 for cheap breakfast and lunch menus that highlight tacos and empanadas, and the tortas (sandwiches) are also a real bargain. In the evening, Casa Denis is a place to see and be seen—if you're seeking more privacy, opt for a seat in the quiet garden courtyard to the rear.
The T-shirts and bras hanging from the palapa of this hilly, windward-side hangout at the island's highest point are good indicators of its party-time atmosphere. Classic rock and reggae tunes play in the background while crowds down cervezas, fish, fajitas, and garlic shrimp. The meals may not be good enough to write home about, but they are good enough to keep the crowds coming. Be sure to stroll out to the quieter, outer edges of the dining area and admire the stunning view. Playing with the lazy house dogs and cats (all rescues) is always fun. The party closes at sunset, and the carved coral steps going downhill can be tricky: use caution.
Hardly a dive bar, this place's name refers to Cozumel's great diving experience. Rub elbows with friendly expats and locals alike while you dine on burritos, shrimp bruschetta, and burgers. The atmosphere is fun and the drinks are always cold. There are a couple of TVs to catch a game. Live bands play on weekend evenings and frequently on weeknights, too.
San Miguel's place to go for coffee roasts beans from Oaxaca and whips them into a variety of drinks. A selection of baked goods and salads rounds out the fare. The place was formerly known as "Coffee Bean," and people occasionally refer to it by that name.
Popular among locals, this taquería captures some of the charm of the barrios and remains open late (until 1 am daily). The soft tacos stuffed with pork, chorizo (sausage), cheese, or beef aren't the cheapest tacos on the island, but they're tasty and filling. Eat in, take out, or have your food delivered.
If you are looking for an authentic taco joint where the locals go, this is the place. The tacos al pastor, carved from a vertical spit, are big, juicy, and inexpensive. Add a cup of frijoles charros (beans and pork soup), and you have one of the best cheap meals you will find on the island.
“I want gelato” is the translation of the name of this shop on the southwest side of central plaza. Partake of mango-, lemon-, banana-, and other tropical-flavored cones in addition to the standard chocolate and vanilla. The place does a brisk business when families and couples turn out to enjoy the Sunday doings on the plaza.
Pick out your goodies with a pair of tongs—that’s the way bakeries operate in Mexico—and bring your tray to the front counter. Take your food (cakes, pastries, breads) to a table indoors or on the front porch or get it to go. Don’t’ forget the coffee—these folks brew it strong.
