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Oahu is undergoing something of a renaissance at both ends of the dining spectrum. You can splurge on world-class contemporary cuisine at destination restaurants and explore local flavors at popular, very affordable holes in the wall. Whatever your taste and budget, you’ll find places that pique your interest and palate.
You may wish to budget for a pricey dining experience at the very top of the restaurant food chain, where chefs Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, George Mavrothalassitis, Chris Kajioka, and others you've seen on the Food Network and Travel Channel put a sophisticated spin on local foods and flavors. Savor dishes that take cues from Japan, China, Korea, the Philippines, the United States, and Europe, then are filtered through an Island sensibility. Take advantage of the location and order the superb local fish—mahimahi, opakaka, ono, and opah.
Spend the rest of your food dollars where budget-conscious locals do: in plate-lunch places and small ethnic eateries, at roadside stands and lunch wagons, or at window-in-the-wall delis. Snack on a musubi (a handheld rice ball wrapped with seaweed and often topped with Spam), slurp shave ice with red-bean paste, or order Filipino pork adobo with two scoops of rice and macaroni salad.
In Waikiki, where most visitors stay, you can find choices from upscale dining rooms with a view to Japanese noodle shops. When you’re ready to explore, hop in the car, or on the trolley or bus—by going just a few miles in any direction, you can save money and eat like a local.
Kaimuki's Waialae Avenue, for example, is a critical mass of good eats and drinks. There you’ll find an espresso bar, a Chinese bakery, a patisserie, an Italian bistro, a dim-sum restaurant, Mexican food, and a Hawaiian regional-cuisine standout (3660 on the Rise)—all in three blocks, and 10 minutes from Waikiki. Chinatown, 15 minutes in the other direction and easily reached by the Waikiki Trolley, is another dining (and shopping) treasure, not only for Chinese but also Vietnamese, Filipino, Malaysian, and Indian food, and even a chic little tea shop. Kakaako, the developing urban area between Waikiki and Chinatown, also offers a mix of local eateries, upscale restaurants, and ethnic takeout.
Outside Honolulu and Waikiki there are fewer dining options, but restaurants tend to be filled with locals and are cheaper and more casual. Windward Oahu's dining scene has improved greatly in recent years due to the visitors to Kailua and Lanikai beaches, so everything from plate lunches to Latin foods to creative regional offerings can be found there. Across the rest of the island, the cuisine is mainly American—great if you're traveling with kids—but there are a handful of Italian and Asian places worth trying as well.
This food truck in the Manuhealii parking lot serves delicious, made-to-order malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) that are crispy and dark brown on the outside and soft, chewy, and sweet on the inside. They're also denser than those found at some other bakeries on the island. This means that they're probably more authentic to the original Portuguese recipe.
Follow a narrow beach pathway (between The Cheesecake Factory and Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort) lined with surfboards to reach this takeout spot specializing in banán, a frozen, vegan-friendly dessert made with local bananas and containing no added sugar. Other snack options include smoothies, smoothie bowls, and ulu (breadfruit) waffles. Try the “Riss Moore” flavor, filled with tropical fruits and named after surfer Carissa Moore, the 2020 Olympic gold medalist and five-time world champion. There's no seating here, but Banán is steps from the beach and the main drag in Waikiki.
Fourth-generation descendants of Japanese sugarcane workers own and operate this casual café, set on the edge of a 140-acre farm north of the food truck village. Menu items include panini, pizzas, wraps, salads, iced drinks, and smoothies, all filled with homegrown ingredients, from lilikoi (passion fruit) and cacao to açai and sweet papaya; enjoy your meal or snack at outdoor shaded tables near a tree-studded lawn and gardens.
A cozy, romantic space with a slightly sophisticated (for the North Shore) vibe, Maya’s serves up classic Spanish and Mediterranean dishes with island twists, including a variety of tapas as well as some larger plates. Here, seafood paella is made with local line-caught fish and shrimp, a burger showcases Kunoa beef, and hand-tossed flatbreads come with roasted local veggies and macadamia nut pesto. Sit indoors at a table or the bar or on the patio overlooking the scene at the North Shore Marketplace.
Dating from 1922, this historic café surrounded by the verdant Manoa Valley landscape is part of the Hawaii Salvation Army headquarters and has been independently operated by Ross and Stefanie Anderson since late 2018. A short menu of simple, delicious breakfast and lunch items are ordered at the counter and delivered to your chosen table, either inside the cozy, multiroom bungalow or on the covered lanai. The Waioli staff is largely made up of people in recovery from substance abuse who are learning the restaurant and kitchen trade, and a 3% vocational training fee is added to all checks, bringing the former tearoom back to its roots as a kitchen skills program for orphaned girls. There's a cute gift shop and plenty of space to linger in the lushness.
The specialties at this coffee spot are cold brew drinks and "Coff-tails," cold brew shaken with a mixture of milks, creams, and flavors. It's not just the drinks made with coffee roasted in-house that are yummy here: the café serves pastries and cold breakfast items like the Lomi Salmon Bagel, and toasted sandwiches, flatbreads, and salads. The sit-down space is limited at this location, so you might grab and go while exploring the downtown and Chinatown areas. Alii Coffee has two other locations, one in Waikiki and one in Kakaako.
Housed in a former officer’s dining hall right on the west-facing beach at Pokai Bay, the hip, casual, younger sibling of Pearl Harbor’s Restaurant 604 is a great place to stop for a bite before or after a surf session at Makaha or a day trip up the west side to Yokohama Bay. The island-inspired menu focuses on comfort foods and includes everything from poke, burgers, fries, and pizza to traditional island plates with fish and rice. During happy hour and sunset time, locals congregate to watch sports on large-screen TVs and see the golden orb dip into the clear seas.
Just five minutes from Waikiki's hotels is chef Kelvin Ro's one-stop food shop—indispensable if you have accommodations with a kitchen or want a quick grab-and-go meal. Join surfers, beachgoers, and Diamond Head hikers at the takeout window to order gourmet sandwiches and plates, such as hand-shaped burgers, portobello mushroom sandwiches, Korean kalbi ribs, and grilled ahi with wasabi-ginger sauce, rice, and salad. Selections include sandwiches, bento boxes, and salads. Don't miss the bakery: locals love this place for the giant scones and desserts like lemon crunch cake. You can also pick up wine, beer, and soft drinks.
Get a taste of local Japanese culture at this family operation on the main thoroughfare in Moiliili, a mile or so mauka (toward the mountains) out of Waikiki. Open since 1939, the delicatessen offers take-out breakfasts and lunches, Japanese snacks, noodle dishes, and confections—and it's a local favorite for catering, from parties to funeral gatherings. If you're going on a round-the-island drive, this is a good option to pick up a picnic lunch. Try mochi (sweet rice-flour cakes), shoyu chicken, hash patties, garlic chicken, and Asian-style salads. The folks here are particularly patient and helpful to visitors, but it's only open from 6 to 2.
Locals love the scrumptious taro-based confections and delightful coffee beverages created by this family-run outfit. Fried in coconut oil, the doughnuts are known for their light texture, splashy colors and designs, and sophisticated flavors, as well as fun names like Island Chocolate, Pineapple Express, Miso Honey, Kale’n It, and Prosperity (with kumquat and poppy seeds). Inquire about the weekly tasting boxes (of four) and seasonal specialties. There’s no seating, but it’s an easy walk to the beach. Other locations are in nearby Ward Village; on the island of Kauai; and in Los Angeles.
Owner Ken Takahashi retired as a nightclub impresario on the Big Island to become a real-life burger king. This modest spot is the home of the locavore burger, made with range-fed beef, Manoa lettuce, tomatoes, and a wide range of toppings, all island-grown—and you can taste the difference. Go classic with a single, hand-shape patty, the meat loosely packed to let the juices run free, or try one of Takahashi's creations. Don't forget the truffle fries. A second location is in Kaimuki.
Recharge for more adventure with coffee, chocolate, shave ice, and boba drinks at this family-owned and operated spot in an old sugar mill garage. The owner crafts the all-natural syrups with organically grown mango, papaya, pineapple, and passion fruit.
Teruaki Mori designed this pub, one of the most traditional of Honolulu's izakayas, to make you feel that you're in a northern inn during winter in his native Japan. Dishes not to miss include karei karaage (delicate deep-fried flounder); fried gobo (burdock) chips; and the snow crab and avocado salad.
Serving up delicious coffee made with Hawaii-grown and -roasted beans, Kai Coffee Hawaii is an island favorite and has several locations. Featuring various coffee styles (including pour over and French press), this is a trusted spot for a fresh cup of gourmet brew or other beverages, such as hibiscus iced tea. It's known for açai bowls and crepes as well. This location in the Alohilani Resort faces Waikiki Beach.
The Dymond family, two generations of restaurateurs who have shaken up the windward food scene, created this one-stop, green-and-white, Mediterranean-leaning café, wine bar, bakery, and gourmet deli. Come in on your way to the beach for a cup of coffee and bagel, and stop back for a delicious pizza or bruschetta for lunch or a candlelight dinner at night. The breakfast and lunch menus are a mix of sandwiches, salads, and other creative offerings; the place transforms at night, with table service, candles, and a frequently changing menu of freshly grilled fish and turf offerings. The original Kalapawai Market, a grab-and-go spot, is right at Kailua Beach.
Generations of children have purchased their beach snacks and sodas at Kalapawai Market near Kailua Beach. A Windward Oahu landmark since 1932, the green-and-white market has distinctive charm. You'll see slipper-clad locals sitting, sharing a cup of coffee, and talking story at picnic tables or in front of the market. It's a good source for your carryout lunch since there's no concession stand at the beach. The market also has one of the better selections of wine on the island. There's a sister Kalapawai Cafe with a sit-down menu in the center of Kailua and two more locations in Waimanalo and Kapolei.
This well-established bakery offers both old-school classics and newer treats, some of which have become cult favorites. You'll salivate as you stare at the cases filled with inexpensive pastries, doughnuts, cookies, and breads. Items are often unlabeled, so point and ask if you want to know what is what, and the counter attendants will cheerfully explain. The poi-glazed doughnuts/malasadas are a phenomenon, but the Chantilly Roll (poi roll filled with black sugar and topped with Chantilly frosting and walnuts) is to die for.
This North Shore spot has gone from funky burger shack (it first opened in 1975) to institution, with crowds of people standing in line to order the large, hand-formed burgers heaped with bacon, cheese, and pineapple. Frankly, there are better burgers to be had around the island, but this place commands a truly loyal following.
At this large Chinatown institution, the dim sum cart ladies stop at your table and show you their Hong Kong–style fare. If you come for breakfast dim sum, arrive before 9 am, especially on weekends, if you want to hear yourself think. There are also à la carte lunch and dinner menus.
Whether you spell it malasada or malassada, when you're in Hawaii, you must try these deep-fried, holeless Portuguese doughnuts. Leonard's Bakery is the most famous of all the island establishments making them and was the first island bakery to commercialize their production. Expect to stand in a long line outside the original Kapahulu location to get a signature pink box or bag filled with the piping hot treats. You can also order from one of the red-and-white-stripe Malasadamobiles parked at several shopping centers on Oahu. Leonard's makes breads, cookies, muffins, and other sweets, too, but let's be honest, you're coming here for the malasadas.
This is a great spot to stop for coffee and a light bite, including some breakfast items, salads, and sandwiches, before or after your explorations in Chinatown, downtown, and historic Honolulu. The coffee shop roasts its own beans and has a latte art "printer" that leaves detailed designs on your drink. A Local Joe West has also opened in Ewa Beach.
For a real slice of Haleiwa life, stop at this family-run spot for cool treats that are available in every flavor imaginable. For something different, order a shave ice with house-made adzuki beans—the red beans are boiled until soft, mixed with sugar, and then placed in the cone with the ice on top.
In contrast to the sprawling, noisy halls where dim sum is generally served, Mei Sum is compact, shiny, and bright—it's also favored by locals who work in the area. Be ready to guess and point at the color photos of dim sum favorites or the items on the carts as they come by, or ask fellow diners for suggestions. It's one of the few places that serve dim sum from 9 am all the way to 8 pm.
The garlic chicken may haunt your dreams, so it's worth the trek to a downscale neighborhood to find this unprepossessing takeout joint. Line up, order the plate lunch with rice and salad, and sink your teeth into the profoundly garlicky masterpiece drizzled with a sweet glaze. Obsessed locals line up at dawn to get takeout for lunch. To avoid the wait, call in your order ahead of time.
Excellent, oversize breakfast items and pastries, accompanied by a versatile coffee and tea list, make this mostly open-air spot a good place to stop for breakfast (though they have lunch items like sandwiches) when you've got time for a leisurely meal. Get there early before food items start to sell out, and be ready to wait in a line that's often long and slow-moving. But as a sign behind the counter reminds customers, be kind.
The community-minded sons and the next generation of a Samoan-Californian couple run this casual eatery across from Shark’s Cove, as well as other locations such as Kahuku and Haleiwa. Surfers and sightseers flock here for burgers, salads, fries, and, in some locations, seafood dishes; this location has outdoor seating.
Popular with locals, this casual counter-service spot is just minutes from Waikiki, on trendy Monsarrat Avenue near the base of Diamond Head. It has something for everyone: generous plate lunches (try the wahoo—a type of mackerel—coated with macadamia-nut pesto and served with a tangy slaw), fish tacos, burritos, burgers, ciabatta-roll sandwiches, and entrée salads. Leave room for dessert, especially the Peanut Butter Temptations, a signature treat that sells out every day.
Among the first of a new wave of plate-lunch places to take particular care with quality and nutrition, this breakfast-and-lunch spot in a strip mall offers brown rice and green salad as options instead of the usual white rice and mayo-loaded mac salad. Sweet-and-spicy garlic chicken and mochiko (rice-batter-dipped and fried) chicken, adapted from traditional Japanese dishes, are specialties that bring locals back again and again. Service is quick and cheerful. Sugoi lives up to its name, which means "awesome" or "wow" in Japanese.
Sunburned tourists and salty surfers rub shoulders in their quest for Ted's famous chocolate haupia cream pie (layered coconut and dark chocolate puddings topped with whipped cream) and hearty plates such as garlic shrimp, gravy-drenched hamburger steak, and mahi mahi. Parking spots and the umbrella-shaded tables are at a premium, so be prepared to grab and go; if you can't get enough of that haupia goodness, Foodland and other grocery chains typically stock a selection of the famous pies.
Longtime local favorite Waiola Shave Ice, known for its super-soft and powdery shave ice (or snow cone) and wide variety of flavors, became nationally known through regular appearances on the reboot of the Hawaii Five-0 TV show. It's a fast-moving line, so know your order when you get to the window. Customize your cone with add-ons, such as ice cream, sweetened condensed milk, mochi, and adzuki beans (sweet red beans). The original location on Waiola Street in the McCully neighborhood has even more of an old-school feel.
