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Pelourinho is the place to catch live music, particularly on Tuesday and Saturday, when musicians perform at stages dotted across the various squares, from Largo do Terreiro de Jesus to Largo do Pelourinho and up the Ladeiro do Carmo. Saturday’s sunset jazz sessions held at the MAM (Museum of Modern Art) are also a must for music lovers. For action any night of the week, head to the trendy, bohemian neighborhood of Rio Vermelho, where locals catch up over acarajé in squares like Largo da Santana before heading on to experimental performance spaces such as Lálá.
