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South of Downtown, the German Colony is a hot spot for eateries, cafés, and little shops. It's a fun, if crowded, spot to pass a morning, afternoon, or evening. The First Station compound is home to nearly a dozen restaurants. Nearby Baka has its own set of quirky cafés and delis. It's worth the 10-minute walk.
This Tunisian hole-in-the-wall offers pillowy hand-rolled couscous, slow-cooked stews, and zingy tuna and egg sandwiches, served outside on tiny tables or packed up to go. There is no menu, just whatever owner Motti Hadad is cooking in the closet-size kitchen.
The name means "red" in Hebrew, referring to the 150 kinds of wine that decorate every wall in this large yet cozy restaurant. The menu has roots in Mediterranean kitchens, and includes loads of meat and seafood options. Try the fantastic Jerusalem mixed grill—it's a gussied-up version of the city's famed street food. Desserts include tahini ice cream and a dark chocolate, gluten-free "Nemesis cake." If you're seated at the bar, look up: when Adom moved to the First Station complex, the old restaurant's plates were converted into intricate light fixtures. Don't arrive Friday evening without reservations.
Even though this German Colony institution is part of a chain, it's still quaint with welcoming service. It's well-known for its sweet potato soup and juicy salmon skewers. Morning meals are generous and varied, including classic Israeli breakfast of eggs and salads. The personable staff and the warm, welcoming space make this a favorite spot for locals. There are also charming branches downtown near Mamilla on Shlomzion Hamalka Street as well as at the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens.
This kosher cousin of the popular Downtown restaurant welcomes you with a large display of fresh vegetables and an open taboon oven where the focaccias are baked. The inventive menu offers eight different focaccias, including an excellent roast beef variety. For starters, try the Peruvian-style chicken strips blanched with mint and seasoned with lime and cilantro, or the beef carpaccio with arugula. Other good choices include the veal bruschetta served with rib-eye skewers, sweetbreads, and grilled portobello mushrooms; or the fish fillet baked with a crust of panko bread crumbs. The menu has several vegetarian options as well.
