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St-Germain is enjoying a revival as a foodie haunt, with Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain the perfect example of the kind of market-inspired bistro that Parisians (and foreigners) adore. The neighborhood's old leftist roots and new bobo sensibility blend together nicely in eateries that are down-to-earth yet reflect a discerning touch. You'll find everything from top Paris chefs (Darroze, Robuchon) to neighborhood favorites so good (Semilla, Fish) that they draw Parisians from bordering arrondissements—and that's saying a lot.
If you can't fathom paying hundreds of euros per person to taste the cooking of Pierre Gagnaire, one of France's foremost chefs, at his eponymous restaurant, but would still like to encounter one of his outstanding culinary experiences, book a table at his Left Bank fish restaurant. At Gaya, Gagnaire uses seafood as a palette for his creative impulses. Expect small portions of artfully presented food. Vegan options are offered upon advance request.
Within the beautifully restored Monnaie de Paris, you'll find star chef Guy Savoy's hallowed dining room. The market-fresh menu features à la carte classics such as artichoke truffle soup or turbot with fresh herbs, but if you want the ultimate gourmet dining experience, splurge on the 12-course, €680 tasting menu. The more modest seven-course lunch menu will only set you back €260, or an à la carte lunch plate is about €150 (these prices do not include wine). Whatever you order, every dish is a work of art.
If it's steak you're craving, put your faith in Jean-Luc Roulière, a fifth-generation butcher who opened this long, narrow bistro near St-Sulpice church. Partner Franck Pinturier is from the Auvergne region, which is also known for its melt-in-the-mouth meat, so start with a lobster bisque or a duck foie gras terrine before indulging in a generous slab of Limousin or Salers beef, a deer steak, or, for the meat-shy, sautéed turbot with fresh vegetables.
Young, talented, and now famous chef Cyril Lignac has nabbed three small sites all within a few feet of each other to create a trio of intimate signature spaces. The main address is Au Prés, which serves Black Angus beef and Japanese-inspired delights such as miso-carmelized black cod. Lignac oversees every detail, including the choice of marble countertops, brass lamps, dark leather booths, and the preservation of the original 1950s floral wallpaper. Next door at No. 25 is another elegant, more modern style bar called Le Bar des Prés, which specializes in Japanese maki and sashimi for lunch and dinner. Finally, Dragon, just across the street is an evening-only private cocktail and sushi bar. A good cocktail is as much a part of the Lignac experience as the delicious and carefully prepared food.
It's all about oysters at this bright 14-seat restaurant with crisp white tablecloths and pleasant service, popular with the area's chic set. If you find yourself puzzled over the relative merits of fines de claires and spéciales, you can always go with the €39 option that includes a glass of white wine and a dozen No. 3 (medium) oysters—or ask the knowledgeable waiters for advice. This simplest of meals can be supplemented with foie gras and toast followed by the fromage du moment.
Self-described as a Maison de Plaisir (House of Pleasure) since 1766, this 17th-century wood-paneled town house flaunts its naughty history with a dark, boudoir-style decor; Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars here, and the restaurant's mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses would use them to double-check the value of their jewels. The classic menu includes caviar and truffle-flavored specials. For a truly intimate meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything can happen (and probably has).
Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this small, Art Deco restaurant gets booked up early for its satisfying menu of traditional French cuisine. Favorites include classics like rib steak with potato puree and grilled salmon. Reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lines and brisk service. Camdeborde also has three local tapas bars, two right next door (L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer and de la Terre) and a much larger one (L'Avant Comptoir du Marché) around the corner at the Marché St-Germain, where delicious small plates, good wine, and a festive atmosphere are guaranteed.
Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze made a name for herself decades ago, and her long-established restaurant in Paris has been revamped and renamed Marsan, a nod to her birthplace in the country's southwest. It's prix-fixe only, at lunch and dinner, whether you opt for the elegant upstairs dining room or the semiprivate table for six with a view of the open kitchen. At the table next to the kitchen (la table du chef), there is a multi-course tasting menu for €325. The elegant dining room serves a four-course lunch menu on weekdays (€95) and a six- or nine-course tasting menu for lunch or dinner (€195 or €250, respectively) that features beautifully presented dishes such as foie gras, lobster, sea bass, farm-raised squab, and Darroze's signature baba, an Armagnac-infused cake with vanilla syrup and candied pears. For truffle fanatics, one can request additional white and black truffle dishes (available only during truffle season).
Chef Martin Maumet has taken over chef William Ledeuil's former Kitchen Galerie Bis and opened Oktobre with its equally refined signature dishes. The catch of the day or quail served with seasonable vegetables does not disappoint. A three-course lunch menu is €39 is offered only on weekdays (but not on public holidays). On weekday evenings, one can choose to order à la carte or the six-course tasting menu for €83 per person. On Fridays and Saturday, the tasting menu is five courses. For groups of six or more, it's the tasting menu only in the evening.
The serious, unpretentious, and mightily creative cuisine here quickly catapulted Quinsou to culinary fame. An emphasis on first-rate growers and suppliers puts vegetables in the limelight, though fish, shellfish, and game also make welcome appearances in the small number of market-fresh dishes that grace the daily menu. Prix-fixe menus are the only options, with a four-course lunch menu (€95) or a five-course dinner menu (€125). Both menus are offered with wine parings for €160 and €200, respectively. It's difficult to convey the originality of these dishes, but Parisians are smitten, and you will be, too.
The duo behind the popular neighborhood bistro La Boissonerie and the excellent wineshop La Dernière Goutte have poured their significant expertise into this laid-back bistro in the heart of tony St-Germain-des-Prés. Its sophisticated cuisine, superb wines by the bottle or glass, and total lack of pretension have quickly made Semilla the toast of the town. A lively open kitchen produces a menu of plentiful dishes served raw, roasted, baked, or steamed, with choices that will thrill carnivores, pescatarians, and herbivores alike. Two- or three-course menus are priced at €55 and €70, respectively, and the five-course tasting menu is €90.
If you're having what is known in French as a crise de foie (liver crisis), the result of overindulging in rich food, this chic Japanese noodle house with a summer terrace and a second dining room upstairs is the perfect antidote. The blond-wood walls soothe the senses, and the freshly made soba (buckwheat noodles), served in soup or with a restorative dipping broth, will give you the courage to face another round of caramelized foie gras.
