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St-Germain is enjoying a revival as a foodie haunt, with Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain the perfect example of the kind of market-inspired bistro that Parisians (and foreigners) adore. The neighborhood's old leftist roots and new bobo sensibility blend together nicely in eateries that are down-to-earth yet reflect a discerning touch. You'll find everything from top Paris chefs (Darroze, Robuchon) to neighborhood favorites so good (Semilla, Fish) that they draw Parisians from bordering arrondissements—and that's saying a lot.
Overlooking the St-Sulpice church, this retro café recalls the Paris of yesteryear, before the proliferation of luxury boutiques and trendy eateries. It is a favorite spot for locals for a coffee, drink, or simple meal despite the sometimes slow service.
The terrace of this corner café, opened in 1902, is a favorite haunt of local gallery owners and Beaux-Arts students. Open every day from 8 am to 2 am, it is ideal for a morning coffee or afternoon drink. Light fare is available throughout the day. If there's a line, walk a few paces up Rue Jacques Caillot to Le Bistrot Mazarin, which has good café options and a comfortable outdoor terrace.
Self-described as a Maison de Plaisir (House of Pleasure) since 1766, this 17th-century wood-paneled town house flaunts its naughty history with a dark, boudoir-style decor; Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars here, and the restaurant's mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses would use them to double-check the value of their jewels. The classic menu includes caviar and truffle-flavored specials. For a truly intimate meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything can happen (and probably has).
This tiny, charming gem is located just behind the hubbub of Odeon and Boulevard Saint-Germain. The head chef here knows good food and everything on the menu is fresh and delicious, from the truffle tarama or classic escargot starters to the fresh fish of the day (often sea bass or cod) or the duck confit as mains. Desserts are inspired by American classics and made with a fine French touch. The space itself is beautiful, and always makes you feel welcome.
Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze made a name for herself decades ago, and her long-established restaurant in Paris has been revamped and renamed Marsan, a nod to her birthplace in the country's southwest. It's prix-fixe only, at lunch and dinner, whether you opt for the elegant upstairs dining room or the semiprivate table for six with a view of the open kitchen. At the table next to the kitchen (la table du chef), there is a multi-course tasting menu for €325. The elegant dining room serves a four-course lunch menu on weekdays (€95) and a six- or nine-course tasting menu for lunch or dinner (€195 or €250, respectively) that features beautifully presented dishes such as foie gras, lobster, sea bass, farm-raised squab, and Darroze's signature baba, an Armagnac-infused cake with vanilla syrup and candied pears. For truffle fanatics, one can request additional white and black truffle dishes (available only during truffle season).
The serious, unpretentious, and mightily creative cuisine here quickly catapulted Quinsou to culinary fame. An emphasis on first-rate growers and suppliers puts vegetables in the limelight, though fish, shellfish, and game also make welcome appearances in the small number of market-fresh dishes that grace the daily menu. Prix-fixe menus are the only options, with a four-course lunch menu (€95) or a five-course dinner menu (€125). Both menus are offered with wine parings for €160 and €200, respectively. It's difficult to convey the originality of these dishes, but Parisians are smitten, and you will be, too.
