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St-Germain is enjoying a revival as a foodie haunt, with Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain the perfect example of the kind of market-inspired bistro that Parisians (and foreigners) adore. The neighborhood's old leftist roots and new bobo sensibility blend together nicely in eateries that are down-to-earth yet reflect a discerning touch. You'll find everything from top Paris chefs (Darroze, Robuchon) to neighborhood favorites so good (Semilla, Fish) that they draw Parisians from bordering arrondissements—and that's saying a lot.
Overlooking the St-Sulpice church, this retro café recalls the Paris of yesteryear, before the proliferation of luxury boutiques and trendy eateries. It is a favorite spot for locals for a coffee, drink, or simple meal despite the sometimes slow service.
The terrace of this corner café, opened in 1902, is a favorite haunt of local gallery owners and Beaux-Arts students. Open every day from 8 am to 2 am, it is ideal for a morning coffee or afternoon drink. Light fare is available throughout the day. If there's a line, walk a few paces up Rue Jacques Caillot to Le Bistrot Mazarin, which has good café options and a comfortable outdoor terrace.
Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this small, Art Deco restaurant gets booked up early for its satisfying menu of traditional French cuisine. Favorites include classics like rib steak with potato puree and grilled salmon. Reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lines and brisk service. Camdeborde also has three local tapas bars, two right next door (L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer and de la Terre) and a much larger one (L'Avant Comptoir du Marché) around the corner at the Marché St-Germain, where delicious small plates, good wine, and a festive atmosphere are guaranteed.
What used to be a rare bookshop has been carefully reinvented into a coffee shop and gourmet deli serving casual fare like an egg and salmon breakfast, lactose-free dishes and pastries, and mixed veggie salads. The vintage hand-painted storefront and tile floors have been preserved and make the space utterly charming; these are the details that make people fall in love with Paris. There is a children's menu and a large choice of homemade desserts.
