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Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis are great for sightseeing, which is why much of the dining scene on these islands revolves around fast food and tourist traps. Luckily, a few long-established brasseries and inspired bistros on elegant Ile St-Louis—not to mention the legendary Berthillon, the city's great glacier (ice-cream maker)—more than compensate. Among the shops, épiceries, and ancient bookstores of Rue St-Louis en l'Ile, the island's central spine, you'll find enough quality dining to keep you satisfied at any time of the day.
Parisian ice cream is served at cafés all over town, but it's worth making the pilgrimage to this mecca of artisanal crèmes glacées to understand what all the fuss is about. The family-owned Berthillon shop features more than 30 flavors that change with the seasons, from mouth-puckering cassis (black currant) in summer to nutty marron (candied chestnut) in winter. Expect to wait in a lengthy line for a tiny scoop.
Popping up all over—and winning converts faster than you can finish a double scoop—is the Amorino chain of gelaterias, which serves inventive frozen concoctions in the shape of flower blossoms. Popular flavors include rich bacio (dark chocolate with hazelnuts) and mascarpone with figs.
Built in 1512 as a residence for the Canon of Notre-Dame, Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole was converted into a wine bar in 1723, making it one of the city’s oldest restaurants. It specializes in dishes from the Aveyron region in the southwest (if it's on the menu, try the coufidou d’Aubrac, a rich beef stew made with Marcillac wine) and serves everything in plush red-velvet-and-antiques dining areas that are a treat for the eyes.
With its dream location on the tip of Île St-Louis overlooking the Seine and Notre-Dame, you'd think this charming brasserie, like so many before it, would have succumbed to its own success. Yet it remains exactly what a decent neighborhood brasserie should be, with authentic decor, efficiently friendly service, and reliably good food. Try the classic leeks vinaigrette, country terrine, and a savory onion tarte à la maison for starters, followed by tender sole meunière, classic choucroute, or buttered entrecôte. The outdoor terrace simply can't be beat.
Set in the shadow of Sainte-Chapelle’s spire, this bright and friendly brasserie has been serving classic fare—tartare de boeuf, cuisse du canard confit—to the lawyers and judges of the Palais du Justice across the street since 1930. Take some time to admire the 19th-century light fixtures and lovely tiled floor.
Sip tea (or lusciously thick hot chocolate) and sample tasty cakes at this atmospheric salon.
Wondering where locals drink their coffee on touristy Île St-Louis? Try this old-time café that also features a menu of classic French dishes—it's open until 2 am daily.
