6 Best Sights in Salvador, Salvador and the Bahia Coast
Salvador sprawls across a peninsula surrounded by the Baía de Todos os Santos on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The city has about 50 km (31 miles) of coastline. The original city, referred to as the Centro Histórica (Historical Center), is divided into the Cidade Alta (Upper City), also called Pelourinho, and Cidade Baixa (Lower City).
The Cidade Baixa is a commercial area—known as Comércio—that runs along the port and is the site of Salvador’s indoor market, Mercado Modelo. You can move between the Upper and Lower Cities on foot, via the landmark Elevador Lacerda, behind the market, or on the Plano Inclinado, a funicular lift, which connects Rua Guindaste dos Padres on Comércio with the alley behind Cathedral Basílica.
From the Centro Histórica you can travel north along the bay to the hilltop Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. You can also head south to the point, guarded by the Forte Santo Antônio da Barra, where the bay waters meet those of the Atlantic. This area on Salvador’s southern tip is home to the trendy neighborhoods of Barra, Ondina, and Rio Vermelho, with many museums, theaters, shops, and restaurants. Beaches along the Atlantic coast and north of Forte Santo Antônio da Barra are among the city’s cleanest. Many are illuminated at night and have bars and restaurants that stay open late.
Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia (MAM)
When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.
Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
A symbol of Salvador, St. Anthony's Fort has stood guard over Salvador since its construction in 1534, and is recognized as Brazil's oldest military structure. The lighthouse atop the fort wasn't built until 1696, after many a ship wrecked on the coral reefs around the Baía de Todos os Santos entrance. Inside, the small Museu Náutico has permanent exhibitions of old maps, navigational equipment, artillery, model vessels, and remnants of shipwrecks found by archaeologists off the Bahian coast. Go in the late afternoon to climb the 22-meter tower before watching the impressive sunset with the crowds who gather on the bank below. Across the road, don't miss stopping by Dinha's barraca for acarajé; her version of the typical Bahian speciality is rumored to be the best in town.
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Praia do Flamengo
Clean sand, simple kiosks, and a beautiful view make this long stretch of golden sand a favorite among good-looking locals and surfers drawn to the strong waves. Buses, which run regularly from Barra and the City Center, take just over an hour; the journey is well worth it if you are looking for a serious beach day. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming; walking.
Praia do Porto da Barra
This popular beach in Barra draws a wide variety of sunseekers from across the city and is a convenient option if you're staying in the hotel districts of Ondina and Rio Vermelho, where rock outcroppings make swimming dangerous and pollution is often a problem. Chairs and umbrellas are available for rent, and you can purchase food from one of the many restaurants lining the promenade. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers; surfing; sunset.
Praia Stella Maris
One of the northernmost beaches in the Salvador municipality, Praia Stella Maris's long stretch of sand is ever-popular with families in spite of the strong waves. The myriad of food-and-drink kiosks, serving delicious salty snacks and água de côco (coconut water), get busy on the weekends. The airport is located just 10 minutes away. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets; parking (fee). Best for: surfing; walking.