4 Best Sights in Salvador, Salvador and the Bahia Coast

Background Illustration for Sights

Salvador sprawls across a peninsula surrounded by the Baía de Todos os Santos on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The city has about 50 km (31 miles) of coastline. The original city, referred to as the Centro Histórica (Historical Center), is divided into the Cidade Alta (Upper City), also called Pelourinho, and Cidade Baixa (Lower City).

The Cidade Baixa is a commercial area—known as Comércio—that runs along the port and is the site of Salvador’s indoor market, Mercado Modelo. You can move between the Upper and Lower Cities on foot, via the landmark Elevador Lacerda, behind the market, or on the Plano Inclinado, a funicular lift, which connects Rua Guindaste dos Padres on Comércio with the alley behind Cathedral Basílica.

From the Centro Histórica you can travel north along the bay to the hilltop Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. You can also head south to the point, guarded by the Forte Santo Antônio da Barra, where the bay waters meet those of the Atlantic. This area on Salvador’s southern tip is home to the trendy neighborhoods of Barra, Ondina, and Rio Vermelho, with many museums, theaters, shops, and restaurants. Beaches along the Atlantic coast and north of Forte Santo Antônio da Barra are among the city’s cleanest. Many are illuminated at night and have bars and restaurants that stay open late.

Casa do Rio Vermelho

Rio Vermelho Fodor's Choice
Dedicated to the life and work of Salvador’s favorite son, author Jorge Amado, this museum is one of the city’s star attractions for both literary aficionados and first-time explorers of Amado’s poetic world. Expert curation by artist-architect Gringo Cardia and its gorgeous location in the writer's former private home make this a must-see. Through his 32 novels, Amado did much to bring Bahia’s rich history to life and preserve its traditions through the most colorful of characters. This state-of the-art, interactive museum breathes life into the author's residence, where personal objects are coupled with short films and interviews with prominent Brazilian creatives that capture the essence of Amado and his important role in the country’s cultural development. Note that credit cards not accepted.
Educational Institution Fodor's Choice Family
Rua Alagoinhas 33, Salvador, 41940–620, Brazil
071-3333–1919
Sight Details
R$20
Tues.–Sun. 10–5

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Catedral Basílica

Terreiro de Jesus Fodor's Choice

Recognized as one of the richest examples of baroque architecture in Brazil, this 17th-century masterpiece is a must-visit. The masonry facade is made of Portuguese sandstone, brought as ballast in shipping boats; the 16th-century tiles in the sacristy came from Macau. Inside, the engravings on the altars show the evolution of architectural styles in Bahia. Hints of Asia permeate the decoration, such as the facial features and clothing of the figures in the transept altars and the intricate ivory-and-tortoise shell inlay from Goa on the Japiassu family altar, third on the right as you enter (it is attributed to a Jesuit monk from China). The altars and ceiling are layered with gold—about 10 grams per square meter.

Fodor's Choice
Salvador, 40020–210, Brazil
071-3321–4573
Sight Details
R$3
Daily 8–11:30 and 2–5:30

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Igreja de São Francisco

Pelourinho Fodor's Choice

One of the most impressive churches in Salvador, the Church of St. Francis was built in the 18th century on the site of an earlier church that was burned down during the Dutch invasion in the early 1600s. The ceiling was painted in 1774 by José Joaquim da Rocha, who founded Brazil's first art school. The ornate cedar-and-rosewood interior is covered with images of mermaids and other fanciful creatures bathed in gold leaf. Guides say that there's as much as a ton of gold here, but restoration experts maintain there's much less. At the end of Sunday morning Mass, which begins at 8 am, the lights are switched off so you can catch the wondrous subtlety of the gold leaf under natural light. Mass is held Tuesday through Saturday beginning at 7:15 am.

Fodor's Choice
Salvador, 40026–260, Brazil
071-3322–6430
Sight Details
R$5
Mon.–Sat. 7–6, Sun. 8–noon

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Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia (MAM)

Comércio Fodor's Choice

When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.