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St-Germain is enjoying a revival as a foodie haunt, with Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain the perfect example of the kind of market-inspired bistro that Parisians (and foreigners) adore. The neighborhood's old leftist roots and new bobo sensibility blend together nicely in eateries that are down-to-earth yet reflect a discerning touch. You'll find everything from top Paris chefs (Darroze, Robuchon) to neighborhood favorites so good (Semilla, Fish) that they draw Parisians from bordering arrondissements—and that's saying a lot.
This lively and popular brasserie is open from 8 am to 1 am every day, serving a copious morning breakfast, brunch on weekends, and an excellent full menu from noon until midnight of everything including cheese and ham boards to share, French onion soup, and an excellent burger. In keeping with the area's literary past and its name (Les Editeurs means "the publishers"), the book-lined space hosts monthly discussions with best-selling contemporary authors.
Overlooking the St-Sulpice church, this retro café recalls the Paris of yesteryear, before the proliferation of luxury boutiques and trendy eateries. It is a favorite spot for locals for a coffee, drink, or simple meal despite the sometimes slow service.
With a cheerfully bright and tiny, wood-beamed dining room—there's more space in the loft-like upstairs—this spot is devoted to the egg in all its forms. Whether you like yours baked with smoked salmon, whisked into an omelet with truffle shavings, or beaten into fluffy pancakes, there will be something for you on the blackboard menu. It's perfect for a late breakfast or light lunch on weekdays (it opens at 10 am and closes in the late afternoon), though rather mobbed for weekend brunch (10 am to 6 pm).
Proving that an organic, vegetarian, and lactose- and sugar-free menu can, indeed, be delicious, Judy was founded with the conviction that our well-being is directly connected to what we eat and how we live. The cheerful, inviting space comes with a sunny sidewalk terrace where seats are coveted by locals. If they’re taken, grab some takeout at the attached shop on Rue de Fleurus and walk one short block to the Luxembourg Gardens for an outdoor picnic.
The terrace of this corner café, opened in 1902, is a favorite haunt of local gallery owners and Beaux-Arts students. Open every day from 8 am to 2 am, it is ideal for a morning coffee or afternoon drink. Light fare is available throughout the day. If there's a line, walk a few paces up Rue Jacques Caillot to Le Bistrot Mazarin, which has good café options and a comfortable outdoor terrace.
What used to be a rare bookshop has been carefully reinvented into a coffee shop and gourmet deli serving casual fare like an egg and salmon breakfast, lactose-free dishes and pastries, and mixed veggie salads. The vintage hand-painted storefront and tile floors have been preserved and make the space utterly charming; these are the details that make people fall in love with Paris. There is a children's menu and a large choice of homemade desserts.
