2 Best Restaurants in Esquilino and Environs, Rome

Black and white tiles create the atmosphere of a Parisian brasserie at this hip all-day bar/restaurant, but the heart of the large food menu is still Italian. Signature dishes include red shrimp carpaccio, the justly popular artichokes cooked three ways, cacio e pepe–filled ravioli topped with crispy guanciale, and the house burger with fat chips. Desserts lean toward France, with colorful macarons, a decadent chocolate pudding, and several crostate (sweet pies usually with jam or ricotta). This is one of the few places in the area open late: food is often served until 2 am.

It's on the pricey side, but the baked goods here are top-quality and the coffee drinks are excellent. Come in the morning for a cornetto (Italian croissant), or in the afternoon for a slice of pizza or one of the delicious mini tarts. Aperitivo time gets busy, thanks to the savory pastry bites or croquettes you can sample at the popular outdoor tables. Table service can be slow, so opt for the counter if you're in a hurry.